POKOTABI / PLACES WORTH A DETOUR

Matsukume

Name: Matsukume
Address: 220 Odawaracho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, 600-8430, 600-8430, JP
Telephone: 075-351-0748

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Matsukume’s lunchtime mini kaiseki serves small portions of dishes such as rolled omelette, Spanish mackerel grilled with saikyo miso, yuba and sesame-tofu tempura. There is also a set with sashimi and savoury egg custard, as well as reservation-only courses for lunch and dinner.

Closed now4.4 / 5Google362 reviews

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03 / TAKE A LOOK AROUND

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01 / ABOUT THE PLACE

About this place

Rather than focusing on one substantial dish, Matsukume’s lunchtime mini kaiseki builds a meal from small portions of grilled food, vinegared dishes and simmered vegetables. The menu includes rolled omelette, Spanish mackerel grilled with saikyo miso, shredded-omelette rolls with crab meat, freshly scooped yuba, simmered dishes, tempura, rice, pickles and red miso soup. Some diners recall the glazed fish and sesame-tofu tempura in particular. Others single out the sesame-tofu tempura as a house speciality, making it an appealing choice for anyone curious about a small dish with a twist. One review also recounts that the tempura arrived later, freshly fried.

For a lunch with plenty of variety that still feels light, choose the mini kaiseki. Those wanting a more substantial meal can opt for the “Mini Kaiseki Set”, which adds an assortment of sashimi and savoury egg custard. One diner who booked the lunchtime mini kaiseki recalls that, although each portion was modest, there was a good range of dishes, including seasonal cooking. Another visitor came alone for lunch and ordered a 187ml mini bottle of wine with the meal. Reservation-only courses are also available at lunchtime, with 3 options ranging from 5,500 to 7,700 yen.

Dinner, too, is served as a reservation-only course, with seasonal dishes brought out in sequence. One example of the 7,700-yen course includes a hassun assortment with pike conger sushi and roast duck; four kinds of sashimi, such as sea bream and flounder; pike conger and matsutake mushroom in a lidded broth; fried dishes; and simmered vegetables. Ingredients and dishes vary by course price, making this an option for a leisurely meal centred on seasonal cooking. Seating includes a counter and tables, and solo diners are welcome. Booking is recommended, and payment is cash only. The choices range from a small lunch kaiseki to a reservation-only dinner course, depending on the time and size of meal you have in mind.

02 / ON THE MENU

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29Featured menu

Mini kaiseki

This lunch-only mini kaiseki offers a selection of small portions of seasonal Japanese dishes. The menu includes grilled and fried dishes and small plates made with seasonal ingredients, along with rice and soup, for a relaxed kaiseki meal. 1 Rolled omelette; Spanish mackerel grilled with saikyo miso 2 Vinegared dish: shredded-omelette roll with crab meat, cucumber and boiled fish cake 3 Simmered dishes: pumpkin, yuba, taro and hirousu (fried tofu fritter) 4 Tempura: sesame tofu, green pepper and aubergine (the selection varies by season) 5 Appetiser: freshly scooped yuba 6 Rice 7 Pickles 8 Red miso soup

Reservation required: 7700-yen course (tax included)

Reservation-only courses are available for both lunch and dinner. There are 3 courses priced from 5500 to 7700 yen. All have the same number of courses; ingredients and dishes vary with the price. Seasonal dishes, including sashimi, grilled food and fried dishes, are served in sequence. Take your time and enjoy them. The photograph shows the 7700-yen course. <7700-yen course> 1 Appetiser: yam tofu, made by setting grated yam with jelly and agar 2 Hassun assortment (selection and quantity vary by course): sesame-vinegared white stalks; miso-marinated soft-boiled egg; pike conger sushi; roast duck; miso-marinated tilefish (depending on the course, this may be replaced by salt-grilled salmon or Spanish mackerel grilled with saikyo miso); gyuhi roll (flounder cured in vinegar and wrapped in kelp); simmered moroko fish 3 Sashimi 4 Four kinds: sea bream, flounder, tuna and salmon 4 Steamed dish: lidded broth with pike conger, ginkgo nuts, prawns and matsutake mushrooms. The 5500- and 6600-yen courses have savoury egg custard instead. 5 Tempura: aubergine stuffed with eel and green pepper. The selection varies by course. 6 Vinegared dish: shredded-omelette roll with crab meat, cucumber, mozuku seaweed and blanched pike conger (sometimes scallop instead) 7 Simmered dishes: pumpkin, prawns, colourful tofu and fried wheat-gluten cake 8 Rice 9 Pickles 10 Clear soup 11 Fruit